TrentoDoc Focus V - Maso Martis Brut Riserva 2014

Brighter label, brighter wine

I tasted the Dosaggio Zero version of this wine a few weeks back. There was clearly a good wine in there, but there was a lot of dulling and oxidative tiredness getting in the way. There is a debate over whether dosage can help preserve a wine; in this case, with the same wine from the same vintage and the same (or close) disgorgement date, the difference is remarkable.*

When you make a Zero Dosage wine, you have to add something back in to replace the wine lost at disgorgement. Often this is just the same wine. A liqueur d'expedition containing sugar may well also contain a dose of sulphites - a double dose of anti-oxidation that zero dosage wines might miss out on at this crucial stage. Whatever the true cause (one for the wine scientists to grapple with), these two wines are the clearest example you could hope for of the profound effect disgorgement practices can have on a wine.

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Maso Martis Brut Riserva 2014

70% Pinot Nero, 30% Chardonnay (aged in barrel). What a gorgeous nose of layered, ripe and joyous fruit. It has quite an exotic feel, with zesty, aromatic green mandarin and kiwi, with some milky sweet papaya and pineapple. The kaleidoscope keeps turning with an element of fresh, crisp red apple, fragrant asian herbs, the tang and creaminess of grapefruit yoghurt - a shifting, complex assembly that adds up to something intriguing and quite hedonistic on the nose. It has that Trento coolness though - that golden yellow-fruited palate is a little more straightforward, tempered with sweetness of candied zest and just enough acidic line. There's some very delicate warmth of biscuit and spice showing a touch of balanced oak influence. Impressive. 91

*Crikey, I've given 9 points difference in score!