Tasted - Champagne Mailly Grand Cru Blanc De Pinot Noir
|Cool-School Pinot Noir from the Northern Montagne|
The Grand Cru village of Mailly-Champagne lies on the Northern side of the Montagne De Reims. With much of its vineyard actually settling on a gentle Northern exposure, the wines from Mailly are amongst the last to be harvested in the whole region. The village is dominated by the Mailly Grand Cru Co-operative, giving us an interesting (and quite rare) opportunity to taste the cool-school of Montagne Pinot Noir in isolation. Yes, there are growers in most of the villages, but the wines are a little harder to find; Mailly make Berry Bros. & Rudd's House Champagne, for example. Mailly call this their 'signature' cuvée, which makes sense to me as, although it is not a hugely complex or ambitious wine, it makes for a fine, transparent benchmark for this style of Pinot Noir.
You could also make some mischief by putting this next to some top 2014 English Blanc De Noirs...
Champagne Mailly Grand Cru Blanc De Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir, 2015 base with 25% reserve wines and 25% vinification in oak. Pours rose gold, with a cocktail of yellow and golden fruits popping up - peach and yellow plums, lemon yoghurt, grapefruit and starfruit. Flecks of camphor and gunpowder emerge after a bit of time in the glass. and a touch of red cherry perfume doffs its cap to the other side of the mountain.
This wears its oak lightly, which I really like. It's quite straightforward on the palate, airy through the middle without too much savour and toast for now. The dosage is not obtrusive but lends a sappy yellow-plum sweetness in a way I find a little present at the moment. I think this will lose some of its puppyish-ness with another 2 years in bottle. Lovely style. 87